My Visit to Europe’s Oldest Jazz Club, Jazzkeller in Frankfurt

In this article, read about jazz singer, writer and artist Sarah Fenwick’s visit to the iconic Jazzkeller club in Frankfurt, Germany.

As a jazz singer, writer and artist who’s recently moved to Germany from Cyprus, I was excited to visit Jazzkeller in Frankfurt, the oldest jazz club in Europe.

Finally, the opportunity presented itself in early April 2023, and on a beautiful day when the trees were blossoming around the city of Frankfurt, I eagerly made my way to the club located in a side street just off the luxury shopping centre, right next to designer store Celine and other famous brands like Prada and Chanel. I found it appropriate that the best in music styles was next to the best in fashion design, since jazz music has influenced fashion for many decades.

Walking down the steep, narrow steps that lead into the cellar venue, I instantly felt the history and energy of the place. The club has been a staple in the jazz community for over 60 years and has hosted some of the most iconic jazz musicians in history, including Louis Armstrong, Dizzie Gillespie, Chet Baker, and Ella Fitzgerald. I was excited to experience the atmosphere, music, and people that make Jazzkeller a must-visit destination for jazz lovers around the world.

The History of Jazzkeller

Before diving into the experience, it’s essential to understand the rich history of Jazzkeller.

Carlo Bohländer was a prominent musician in the Frankfurt jazz scene who founded the legendary club “Domicile du Jazz” (Home of Jazz) in the aftermath and devastation of World War II. The club became known as the Jazzkeller and was a seeding ground of jazz in Germany and a hub for world-famous jazz greats.

During the day, it served as a rehearsal room, and in the evenings and at night, international jazz musicians gathered to perform and engage in jam sessions. Bohländer was also a pioneer in the theoretical study of jazz and swing, authoring books that were well-received by the music industry. Jazz had been taught in Frankfurt since 1928, until the Nazis banned it as “degenerate” music in 1933. Despite this, Bohländer continued to play jazz, seeing it as a form of resistance and the sound of freedom, according to the Historical Museum of Frankfurt.

In 1986, the club’s management and ownership changed hands when musical director and bassist Eugen Hahn took it over. He died in 2022 and his photo surrounded by carnations is featured on a shelf on one of the massive columns inside the club.

Jazzkeller has hosted some of the most iconic jazz musicians in history, while also giving a platform to up-and-coming musicians and providing a space for experimentation and improvisation. The club has played a pivotal role in shaping the jazz scene in Frankfurt and beyond, and its legacy continues to inspire musicians and jazz enthusiasts around the world.

Walking through the club’s doors, I felt the pull of its history and impact on the jazz community. A poster for a Chet Baker concert caught my eye and I felt the reality and attraction of the place’s history. It was humbling to be in a space that has played such an important role in the development of jazz music and culture.

The Atmosphere and Decor of the Club

Jazzkeller has a unique and intimate atmosphere that immediately draws you in under a curved ceiling branching out from a thick central column. Keller means cellar in English, the club is located in the basement of a large city building, and there was a cozy and warm feeling quite distinct from the outside world of modern commerce.

The walls were adorned with vintage posters and photographs of jazz legends who had played in the venue, giving the space a sense of history and nostalgia. The lighting was dim, creating an intimate ambiance that perfectly complements the music.

The seating was arranged around a central column in front of the stage and for those near the bar who don’t have a direct view of the stage, there was a screen to easily watch the performance. The tables and chairs were simple, creating a sense of closeness and community among the guests. The decor was touched by a line of framed black-and-white photographs of famous performers, adding their personality to the club’s ambiance.

The Audience and Crowd

The audience at Jazzkeller is as diverse as the music itself. On the night I visited, there were people of all ages and backgrounds in attendance. Some were die-hard jazz fans who had been coming to the club for years, while others were first-time visitors like myself.

Despite the diversity of the crowd, there was a sense of community and camaraderie among the guests. Everyone was there for the same reason - to enjoy the music and the atmosphere of Jazzkeller. I struck up a conversation with a guitarist sitting next to me, and we ended up networking, with me showing him Sarah’s Jazz Club in Nicosia and the guitarist sharing his background as an audio engineer and regular performer at the jam sessions held every Wednesday. It was refreshing to be in a space where people were so open and welcoming to one another, in contrast to the busy city outside the club’s cosy atmosphere. This is the very definition of a jam session, a home away from home.

The music and performances

Of course, the music is the main attraction at Jazzkeller, and it did not disappoint. The night I visited, there was a jam session hosted by a jazz trio led by guitarist and multi-instrumentalist Martin Lejeune, and they put on a bluesy, riveting performance. The session opening musicians were talented, skilled, and passionate about their craft, and it showed in every note they played.

As a singer, I was warmly welcomed to a dedicated table for musicians so I could join the jam session performances later on. Settling into my seat at the musician’s table and taking in the surroundings, I felt like I was part of something special. The atmosphere of Jazzkeller is welcoming, relaxed, and inclusive, making it easy to connect with the music and the people around you.

One of the things that stood out to me about the music at Jazzkeller was the sense of improvisation and experimentation. The musicians were not content to simply play their songs as written; they were constantly pushing the boundaries and improvising. This created an energy and excitement that was palpable throughout the club. The audience was appreciative, applauding every solo and really enjoying their time there.

The music at Jazzkeller is a testament to the power of jazz as a genre. It brings people together, creates a sense of community, and inspires creativity and expression. When it was my turn to sing, the musicians’ responsiveness and the audience’s appreciation left me feeling energized and inspired.

Meeting the Musicians and Staff

One of the highlights of my visit to Jazzkeller was getting to meet the musicians and staff. Everyone I encountered was friendly, welcoming, and passionate about jazz music.

After the performance, I also had the chance to meet the musicians and thank them for their beautiful performance. They were gracious and kind, and it was clear that they were passionate about sharing their music with others. Meeting the musicians and staff added another layer of depth to my experience at Jazzkeller and made me appreciate the club even more.

Memorable Moments and Experiences

There were many memorable moments and experiences from my visit to Jazzkeller, but a few stand out in my mind. One was the moment when I stood on stage with musicians I’d just met and felt their blues groove carrying me forward into the song like an embrace. Another memorable experience was the audience’s enthusiastic applause of the song I sang in the jam session, Black Coffee, a bluesy number written by Sonny Burke in 1948.

Finally, the overall atmosphere and energy of the club were unforgettable. From the decor to the music to the people, everything came together to create a unique and special experience.

Recommendations for Jazz Enthusiasts

If you’re a jazz enthusiast like me and visiting Germany, I highly recommend a night at Jazzkeller in Frankfurt. It’s a must-visit destination for anyone who loves jazz music, and the experience is truly unforgettable. Be sure to check the club’s website for upcoming performances and plan your visit accordingly.

When you do visit, take the time to soak in the atmosphere and connect with the people around you because Jazzkeller is a space that encourages community and connection. Finally, be open to the music and the experience. Jazz is about experimentation and improvisation, and the musicians at Jazzkeller embody that spirit. Allow yourself to be swept up in the energy and excitement of the music, and you won’t be disappointed.

In conclusion, my visit to Jazzkeller in Frankfurt was a highlight of my first days as a new resident in Germany. The club’s rich history, intimate atmosphere, and incredible music made for an unforgettable experience. I left feeling inspired and grateful for the opportunity to connect with other jazz enthusiasts and experience the power of jazz music firsthand. If you have the chance to visit Jazzkeller, I highly recommend it.